The Heater

Ladakh is a cold region. Seven months of the year the area is unreachable by ground and iffy by air. May is just the beginning of spring. Apricot and apple trees are blooming, irises are flowering along some of the fields. Grain seeds are sprouting in some of the fields but most haven’t yet been planted, it seems. The poplars and willows, the only trees that grow here, are the lovely yellowy green of new leaves. Most of the older willow trunks are standing naked of branches with tiny green shoots popping out.

The willow is a generous tree. Every year the people cut it back dramatically for firewood. Wood and dung are primary sources of fuel around here, and we see pats of dung drying on the sides of hills as we walk or ride along the roads.

Now, back to the shower and more importantly the heater (monasteries will wait; they have been here for hundreds of years); you will see the connection. With wood as a primary source of energy, heating all the homes and businesses would lead to deforestation. And then, where would people get energy if they had cut down all the trees?

Heat is not standard in the rooms of our hotel, and I would guess in others in the city as well. This was not a problem when the city was completely inaccessible in the winter, but with air access, tourists have started to come here in the winter months. The proprietor of Hotel Omasila bought some gas heaters and offered them to guests for the first time this winter.

On out first night, before we got the heater, we slept in long underwear under pajamas, and our knitted hats. The twin beds are pushed together (I can see why) and we had two really incredible blankets to share. Judy got so warm that she threw off her hat and part of her blankets (not me). Neither of us wanted to get out of the bed to open the windows that let the warming sun in, but finally we did.

Our room is wonderfully warm and beautiful in the daytime. The propane heater has made it possible to sit without a coat on and be comfortable at any time of day although we had a moment of uncertainty when we couldn’t figure out how to turn the heater back on at 6 a.m. I went down to the desk to ask for help (and to find about a dozen people up and engaged in their daily activities). I caused a little stir by slipping, but not falling, on the steep staircase in front of all the extremely kind Ladakhis, and then they sent a young man to our room to light the heater. He showed us how to turn it on and reiterated how to turn it off, which seems to be far more important no matter one’s perspective.

Thank you Carol for suggesting the heater. Thank you Hotel Omasila for having it.

Gym Source