Photos of Armenia

Merci, Hayastan: Photographs of Armenia

Armenians call their country Hayastan and themselves the Hay. Like the Persians beside whom they dwell in the southern reaches of the Caucasus Mountains, the Armenians allowed a few French words, like merci, to slip into their vernacular. One Armenian woman explained the adoption to me by saying that the Armenian sh'norhakal em is just too long to say very often.

This collection of photos is my way of saying thank you to Armenia for wonderful hospitality, for enchanting me with natural beauty and for intriguing me with the dilemma of development in a landlocked spot sandwiched between powerful neighbors Russia and Iran.

Eleven large images make up the core of the collection.

The Armenia has a long Christian history. The ancient Armenian nation was the first to declare Christainity its official religion. A tradition of Christian faith is one of the bonds Armenia shares with Russia. Both interior and exterior walls of the Noravank Monastery are crowded with the carvings of Christian pilgrims in the Middle Ages.

Through the centuries Russians, Turks and Persians have traded the territory that now belongs to the Republic of Armenia. As late as the 1820s the Persian Empire held this land. Now, the only mosque remaining in the capital has been restored by an Iranian foundation. While the front entrance of the Blue Mosque is obscured from Mashtots Avenue by a wall, the back door opens directly onto a side street.

Armenians have rediscovered Christian faith in the post-Communist era. Here, Anahit balances on the wall of Geghard Monastery, which was carved in the mountainside in the 13th century and takes its name from the spear that pierced the side of Jesus as he died on the cross. This artifact is now housed in a museum in the cathedral complex at Etchmiadzin.



While the Catholicos of the Armenian Apostolic Church was in Detroit, other priests took over his responsibilities in Etchmiadzin, the spiritual center of Armenian Christianity.




Ancient Armenians began the custom of placing large carvings, khatchkars, to memorialize events and people. These khatchkars mark graves in the village of Noratus on Lake Sevan. The population of this village has shrunk because there is no work here for younger people. This woman and several other elderly women tend sheep and chickens. They love coffee and opportunities to joke with visitors from Yerevan.

The unique alphabet also bonds Armenians. The monument built this year to commemorate the anniversary of the revelation of the Armenian alphabet to Saint Mesrop Mashtots 1600 years ago is placed at 1600 meters in front of Mt. Aragots, the highest peak in Armenia.

While religion and history are ever present in Armenia, daily life includes work, food and sport as it would in any country. Nevertheless, all of life has the flavor of the Caucasus and the confluence of cultures.



People of every region of Armenia sell produce along the highways. These local delicacies include herbs, honey and a variety of vegetables. This man was selling boiled corn on the highway that leads from Yerevan to Dilijan in the Tavush Marz.



These women clean wool at their home on the road from Goshavank. They gave me strawberries because I wanted to take their picture.
Cleaning wool is difficult work.




These children had just finished playing a soccer match in Surenavan. In this village near the Turkish border, the 2,000 human inhabitants coexist with dozens of storks.


Dried fruit and nuts steal the show at the farmers’ market. This kind vendor helped me clean up after a hot, marinated fig spit all over my shirt.


These men wait at the bus stop in front of the Blue Mosque. They could get cash from the ATM and buy kvas from the yellow tank next to the shelter.